An investigation by the Intellectual Property Office (IPO) has revealed the presence of mercury, high levels of lead and methanol in counterfeit cosmetics seized in the United Kingdom, according to an article published by Cosmetics Business. Tests carried out by Trading Standards on a sample of 50 counterfeit cosmetic products show that 20 of them failed safety checks, or four products in ten.
Among the substances identified, a counterfeit skin-lightening cream contained 1.32% mercury, the equivalent of 13,200 parts per million. The same category of products revealed the presence of 8.1% hydroquinone, a substance banned in lightening cosmetic products in the United Kingdom. A counterfeit contouring kit, meanwhile, showed 40 mg/kg of lead, while a counterfeit perfume contained around 80% methanol, a toxic alcohol that can be absorbed through the skin or inhaled. Traces of nicotine, also prohibited in cosmetics, were additionally detected in a counterfeit perfume.
These substances expose consumers to documented risks. Repeated skin exposure to mercury can damage the kidneys and the nervous system. Lead can accumulate in the body over time, potentially affecting the brain, the nervous system and the kidneys. At sufficiently high exposure levels, methanol can cause severe poisoning, including damage to the nervous system and eyesight, while hydroquinone can cause irritation and, with repeated use, potentially permanent changes to skin pigmentation.
Against this backdrop, an operation carried out in July 2026 by the police's intellectual property crime unit and Grand Manchester police led to the seizure of 1,666 counterfeit hair products in a warehouse during a raid in Manchester.
An industry mobilised
The findings are being disseminated through the IPO's "Face the Fakes" campaign, which works with beauty industry organisations, scientific experts and social media creators to raise awareness of the risks. Millie Kendall, chief executive of the British Beauty Council, states that "l'industrie britannique de la beauté investit un soin, une créativité et une expertise considérables dans la création de produits que les gens aiment et peuvent utiliser en toute confiance". She adds that "la sécurité et la confiance traversent toute notre industrie, des marques qui développent les produits aux détaillants et professionnels qui les apportent aux consommateurs", before pointing to counterfeiters who "exploitent la réputation et la créativité que de brillantes entreprises de beauté ont travaillé dur à construire, sans respecter les mêmes normes". She also says she is "fière de soutenir Face the Fakes et d'aider davantage de personnes à acheter auprès de sources fiables".
For her part, Dr Emma Meredith, chief executive of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), points out that "il existe un cadre de sécurité rigoureux derrière chaque produit cosmétique légitime vendu au Royaume-Uni", noting that "les ingrédients sont soigneusement contrôlés, les produits font l'objet d'une évaluation de sécurité, et les entreprises ont des responsabilités légales claires pour les produits qu'elles mettent sur le marché". She recalls that "un travail considérable s'effectue en coulisses pour que les gens puissent utiliser leurs cosmétiques en toute confiance", before warning: "les produits contrefaits peuvent contourner ces garanties, c'est pourquoi savoir auprès de qui on achète et choisir des sources fiables est essentiel".
Beauty salons, retailers and professionals in the United Kingdom are now being urged to strengthen checks on the cosmetic products they buy, use and sell.
