Desa, described by WWD as Turkey's leading leather manufacturer, would be putting its industrial infrastructure to work on a potential alternative to animal leather. The company would be launching Nuera, a biofabrication joint venture and wholly owned subsidiary of Desa, a publicly listed company, which would hold exclusive worldwide rights to produce and market Lunaform under a long-term licensing agreement with Gozen.
A bet on industrial credibility
According to WWD, Nuera's bet would consist of combining Gozen's biofabrication technology with Desa's manufacturing experience, claimed at more than 50 years. Burak Çelet, CEO of Desa, reportedly said that « le plus gros problème des matériaux de nouvelle génération aujourd'hui, c'est la crédibilité », adding that « de nombreuses innovations précieuses ont émergé ces dernières années, mais aucun produit n'a véritablement réussi le passage de l'échelle laboratoire à la production industrielle de masse ».
For Çelet, Lunaform's compatibility with conventional tanning processes would be a decisive advantage. He is also said to have highlighted the material's speed of growth: Lunaform could grow in seven days, compared with at least a year for raising cattle. The executive is further said to anticipate a tightening of leather supply in the medium term, owing to global warming, consumer reluctance and technological shifts, with leather remaining a byproduct of the meat industry whose availability could be affected by changing consumption patterns and the rise of alternative proteins.
Kering as first customer, sixteen others in discussions
Before Nuera's launch, Çelet and Ece Gozën, CEO of Gozen, reportedly spent nearly a year meeting with brands. The platform is said to have secured its first commercial orders from Kering for its "S|Style 2026 Wardrobe Edition", presented during Milan Fashion Week. Çelet reportedly specified that sixteen other customers, from the luxury and automotive sectors, are currently developing products with Nuera.
As production scales up, the stated goal would be to bring Lunaform's costs down to the level of petroleum-based materials, while maintaining the performance standards required by brands. Çelet reportedly summed up the commercial logic as follows: « d'abord la performance, ensuite le prix ». He is also said to have argued for anticipating structural shifts in the industry, stating that it was necessary to « réparer le toit quand il ne pleut pas ».
Further announcements of commercial adoption are expected in 2027.
